Freshwater Pearls

The color of each pearl varies and should be considered in two aspects: the base color and the overtone (it is very difficult to find two pearls that are absolutely identical). The base color should be observed on the edges, while the overtone appears in the center of the pearl. At Kalinas, we pay particular attention to color when creating our freshwater cultured pearl jewelry.

Pearls are available in a variety of colors and shades: white, blue, pink, cream, yellow, gray, and more, with an innumerable range of overtones; the most sought-after colors are white, apricot, and lavender.

The different coloration of freshwater pearls can be attributed to two specific factors. The first is related to the optical phenomenon of reflection and refraction of light that penetrates through the pearl’s surface. The second is due to the chemical reaction of microscopic pigments contained within the nacre layer. For accurate color evaluation, we recommend using indirect light during your test.

Who is the largest producer of pearls? While China, the United States, and Japan are all producers of freshwater cultured pearls, China holds a clear dominance in the market. Since the 1970s, small Chinese companies have emerged on the international market, and their influence has continued to grow exponentially.

We owe this remarkable growth to several factors. The most obvious are the high production volume and the relatively low cost of Chinese products, but the refinement of production methods has also allowed for a wide range of sizes and colors to be introduced to the market.

Freshwater pearl companies initially began producing freshwater pearls in medium to low quality; only later did they manage to significantly improve product quality to the point of fairly competing with other types of cultured pearls on the international market.

Companies producing freshwater pearls generally use 10 different species of mollusks, the most common being Hyriopsis cumingi and Cristaria plicata. Hyriopsis cumingi is found in China. Along with Chrysalis Plicata, they now produce the majority of Chinese freshwater pearls. North American cultivations use Megalonaias nervosa. Although many species from the Unionidae family have been tested, current production prioritizes Megalonaias nervosa.

Due to high market demand, Cristaria plicata is increasingly used. Typically, H. Cumingi mollusks undergo grafting at an age between 6 and 7 months and a diameter of 5–6 cm. The process generally takes place during the warmest months of the year due to the geographic location of the companies.

The first phase of the freshwater pearl nucleation process involves taking a long strip of tissue from a donor mollusk and cutting it into small squares approximately 2 to 3 cm on each side. Next, the technician closes the two valves of the recipient mollusk, blocking the opening with a wedge. Through the small opening created, the technician can make two rows of aligned incisions in the mantle tissue of the first valve and insert a tissue fragment into each. After this procedure, the wedge is removed, allowing the mollusk to close its shell and return to the water.

Pearls have always been coveted and cherished. Ancient fishermen in Asia adorned themselves with jewelry made from gemstones found inside harvested mollusks. In the 1960s and 70s, cultured pearl jewelry was considered an accessory for mature, affluent women or as an ornament for wives.

However, as cultured pearl jewelry became increasingly affordable, this perception began to fade. At a relatively low price, even young women looking for a piece to wear daily, complementing a work wardrobe, could leave your store with a cultured pearl item.

An Timeless Classic

Necklaces with pearls are very popular across all market segments. Multifilament necklaces with multiple rows of freshwater cultured pearls are highly valued, and as consumer awareness grows, the demand for cultured pearl necklaces has become increasingly strong. Some necklace styles feature freshwater cultured pearls combined with other gemstones, such as amber, lapis, corundum, and silver beads. Designs with pearls spaced at regular intervals on silk thread, metal wire, or chain remain the top sellers on the international market.

Earrings

Worn alone or as a set with a necklace or pendant, cultured pearl earrings are an essential part of most women's wardrobes. Classic and popular styles include Akoya pearls, freshwater pearls, or South Sea pearls set on simple posts.

Rings

Most fine jewelry stores carry several rings set with cultured pearls. Common styles feature Akoya or freshwater pearls mounted on gold or platinum.

Compared to other gemstones, cultured pearls are relatively soft. However, with proper care, they can be worn daily without issues. They require careful handling, so it is advised not to wear them during manual labor to minimize the risk of surface damage.

Pearls for Men’s Jewelry

Today, cultured pearls are mainly used to create jewelry for a female audience, but this was not always the case. In fact, throughout history, men frequently wore pearls. In Ancient Rome, only emperors and the wealthiest individuals were permitted to wear pearls, and ownership by people of lower social ranks was even considered illegal. In 13th and 14th century Europe, both men and women adorned themselves with pearl jewelry. Even then, members of certain professions were prohibited from wearing ornaments or necklaces with pearls.

Are you considering buying a pearl jewelry piece? A few simple tests can help you determine in just minutes if the pearls are real or fake. Learn right away to identify the characteristics of a genuine pearl, so you no longer risk purchasing a counterfeit.

Tactile Tests

a) Rub the pearls against an incisor. Hold one or two pearls between your thumb and index finger and gently press against the biting surface of your tooth with a horizontal motion. A real pearl should feel rough and slightly grainy, with tiny specks on the outer nacre surface. Fake pearls made of glass or plastic are almost always too smooth and flawless.

b) Rub the gemstones together. Hold a pair between your fingers and create friction between them. You should feel a slight sense of friction. Real pearls create this sensation because the outer nacre layers have tiny imperfections that prevent a smooth glide. At the end of the test, observe your hands carefully. When you rub real pearls, tiny nacre particles may come off. If you notice a fine white, powdery residue on your fingers, it’s likely nacre powder, indicating they are genuine gems.

c) Check if the pearls are perfectly round. As a product of nature, each real pearl is slightly unique, much like snowflakes or fingerprints. Many are not perfectly spherical and may be oval or have small flaws. If the pearls you are examining are perfectly round and identical, they are likely artificial.

d) Test for a cold touch. For this test, use some gems that haven’t been worn for a while. Hold them in your hand and focus on the warmth of your skin. Real pearls feel cold and take a few seconds to warm up. The sensation is similar to walking barefoot on marble.

Visual Tests

a) Look for tiny imperfections. As mentioned earlier, real pearls are rarely “perfect.” They usually have small flaws or irregularities in shape. The outer nacre layer may also reflect light differently from one spot to another. Imitations are often “too perfect”: they are perfectly spherical with a uniform shine on the surface and show no flaws or irregularities.

b) Check for clarity and intensity in luster. Luster is a characteristic jewelers use to describe how light reflects off a gemstone; it contributes to the gem’s beauty. High-quality pearls have intense, sharp luster, making them glow when light hits them. If you look closely, you may see your reflection in the pearl.

c) Assess the lustre. The price of authentic, high-quality pearls is often determined by their luster. This indicates the amount of visible light on the gem when illuminated. Fake pearls usually lack luster (a characteristic that’s hard to replicate). For this reason, if the specimen appears to have brilliant reflections when placed under a light source, there’s a good chance it’s a treasure.

If you want to buy freshwater pearls, you’ll evaluate different qualities, colors, and sizes. Beyond price, many other aspects should be considered. Don’t rush your purchase; first, learn to compare pearls based on type, size, color, and surface quality.

The Size of a Freshwater Pearl

Size can vary depending on several factors: the size of the implant used in the grafting process, the cultivation period, and the type of oyster that produced the pearl. Pearls are measured in millimeters perpendicular to the axis of symmetry. Generally, larger pearls are also more expensive. The classic size is 7 mm.

Different Colors

Classic cream white with a hint of pink is ideal for highlighting lighter complexions. Black or gray pearls suit all skin types, while silver pearls are perfect for darker skin tones.

The Surface Quality of a Cultured Pearl

Ensure the pearl has no visible bumps, scratches, or color variations.

The dimensions of cultured pearls are measured with precision gauges capable of calculating pearl diameters to hundredths of a millimeter.

Calibration is a fundamental step for the selection and classification of cultured pearls: the larger the pearl, the higher its commercial value. To understand this mechanism, one must consider that the size of cultured pearls is determined by many variables (climate, time spent in the water, nutritional quality of the plankton...). In any case, producing a very large pearl is always challenging for the oyster, regardless of the species.

Cultured pearls come in countless shapes, divided in the market into regular shapes (spherical, semi-spherical, button, drop, oval) and irregular shapes (baroque and circled). Shape is a very important factor in evaluating cultured pearls: the more symmetrical a pearl is, the higher its value. The shape of cultured pearls is dictated by the randomness of nature, and only a small percentage of the cultured pearls (varied by type) are perfectly spherical.

In saltwater cultured pearls, like Akoya, South Sea, and Tahitian pearls, grafting a rigid, round nucleus promotes the regular growth of the pearl, while in nucleus-free freshwater pearls, the shapes tend to be more irregular. Below, we present the different shapes and sizes of freshwater pearls.

Round Pearls

Spherical pearls with a perfectly round shape. Naturally spherical pearls are very rare, while cultured pearls, especially Akoya pearls, often achieve impeccable roundness.

Semi-Round Pearls

Semi-spherical. These are faceted or naturally spherical pearls with a minimal diameter deviation of between 2% and 5%. Semi-spherical pearls already mounted in jewelry often appear as spherical to the observer.

Button Pearls

Button-shaped cultured or natural pearls with a flat, rounded shape. They are particularly popular for earrings and rings because they are less protruding and therefore more discreet.

Drop Pearls

Drop-shaped cultured or natural pearls. Perfectly shaped drop pearls are highly sought after and expensive, referred to as “drop pearls” in the trade, characterized by an elongated and not overly flattened shape.

Oval Pearls

Cultured or natural pearls with an egg-like shape, where the top is symmetrical to the bottom. Proportionate oval pearls are especially popular.

Baroque Pearls

Baroque cultured or natural pearls, with an irregular, undefined shape. Generally, baroque pearls are modestly priced and appreciated in the creation of artistic jewelry, with imaginative and creative designs. They are also known as “Scaramazze pearls.”

Circled Pearls

Cultured or natural pearls with an irregular shape characterized by noticeable or slightly suggested rings. Along with baroque pearls, circled pearls are among the least expensive on the market.